Before I met my Maltese friends in London, my association of the word ‘Malta’ is limited to the chocolate wafer balls (I am sorry Edward and Nerissa!). I knew it is somewhere in the Mediterranean, but I thought it is a city in Greece.[1]

 

Malta is a small city state, it was a British colony. It’s a tax heaven country. You can get a Maltese passport if you invest certain sum there. I can’t help to think it’s the equivalent of Singapore. However, even though both are sunny little port islands, British colonies, international capitalists haven and tourists destination, the cultures are starkly different. Singapore boast modernity, order and precision. Malta is ancient and laidback.

 

Malta was not on the top of our European-countries-to-visit list because of my lack of knowledge in geography. However, when Ed and Neri invited us to their wedding (that also became our reunion event with our QMUL friends), Malta climbed to the priority list.

 

Arrival in Malta

 

Since there is no flight from Jakarta to Malta, we combined our trip there with the Netherlands and Austria trips. We took Air Malta from Vienna to Luqa International Airport.

 

I read Air Malta has good safety record (naturally, being a European airline).[2] As for services, I don’t think our return flights met full-board airlines standards. It is not Ryan Air, but the seats are pretty tight even for Asian size. There was barely any room between my knees and the front seat. A group of Maltese footballers only sat during take-off and landing. They preferred standing during the entire 2 hours 30 minutes flight. Christian my tall (2 metres) German friend said he had sit diagonally. They gave us cold  sandwich for in-flight meal. The only available in-flight entertainment was the airline magazine.

 

We arrived on time. We waited for Morgan, our French friend. When we saw her, we were happy to see each other again after 2 years yet everything felt like yesterday. We took a taxi together to Saint Paul’s Bay. Thus began our Maltese reunion.

 

Bugibba (Saint Paul’s Bay)

 

Dolmen Resort Hotel was the venue of the wedding party. Since Neri’s dad works for the hotel, we got a special room rate. Our friends stayed there for their entire trip to Malta. We decided to be nomadic and change accommodations every night because we wanted to explore Malta more.

 

Bugibba is where I had my first swim in the Mediterranean sea. Unlike tropical waters, the sea is calm. It feels more salty. It was easier to float, although I am not a good swimmer.

It was also my first time attending a Mediterranean wedding. It was a large wedding feast, by European standards. There were 500 guests, from all over the world (to quote Ed, ‘from places as far as Australia and Indonesia!’). Before Ed and Neri’s, my first-hand knowledge on wedding parties was limited to Indonesian weddings (which are boring).[3]

Sunset and fireworks. People drank, danced, even a moshed a little. Even the parents and the senior guests and the kids. The ingenious part was when sandals were distributed for the ladies (to change from their stilettos). So everyone could dance. The band was awesome—they did not take any break. Ed said the band name is Red Electrick and they are the best band in Malta. Most songs sung were in Maltese (I remember there were some English songs, like Viva La Vida and Wonderwall—other than the fact they are classics, they remind me that it is London, the capital of Cool Britannica, that united us), but the language of the rhythms are universal. Fuelled with free flow drinks and food, our hive switch was on. It was a wet hot night and we lost ourselves to Mediterranean happiness.

 

When a guest gave speeches, it was always something personal and, therefore, moving. I had the honour to represent Edward and Neri’s QMUL friends in giving that speech (I was forced, the group unanimously appoint me). I wrote a draft on Evernote, but the battery of my phone died just before the speech.

 

Now, public speaking is not easy for me. The fact that I am the only Asian in the party has made me more self-conscious. On stage, the feeling multiplies. Fortunately, I got helpful tips from a good public speaking training. The most helpful ones are these: (1) be yourself; and (2) use silence to communicate and capture attention. In order to be myself, I set my mindset that this is not about me trying to impress people by being Obama or Soekarno. This is about sharing and expressing our empathetic joy to Edward and Nerissa’s happiness.

 

I think I said something about how glad I was to make friends in London. The big city can be alienating and lonely if you have no friends. After the speech, we delivered our main gift to Ed and Neri: a video of us congratulating them in our native tongue. We thought it is nice to celebrate our intercontinental friendships with an audio visual medium. I won’t win a Toastmaster cup that night, but I think my speech had the intended emotional effect.

 

It was a time of our life. I can still remember the Mediterranean sunset, the fireworks, the sea breeze. Reconnected with my London friends. Even a possibly racist bartender could not spoil my mood.[4]

Now, despite all the wonderful things Bugibba has given me, I would not visit or even stay there if not because of the wedding. It is a touristy area—not in a good way i.e. not a classic globetrotter destination. It is like Kuta and Legian. But instead of inconsiderate Australians, it was full of inconsiderate British holidaymakers who just want to escape the British weather.[5] The loud tourists with tribal tattoo (sans meaning) and fake tans combined with modern resort styled buildings made me decide that Saint Paul’s Bay is just not my kind of place.

 

Nevertheless, I soon learned that I should not judge Malta from Saint Paul’s Bay. Just as no one should not judge Bali only from Kuta and Legian.

 

Mdina

 

On our first night in Malta, we visited Mdina. The Silent City is extremely charming. It is like Moroccan medinas, but well-maintained and safe to walk at night. It was night time so most of the grand sights, such as the Cathedral, were already closed.  On the bright side, there were very few people and the city was beautifully lit.

 

We had dinner at Fontanella. The café is sitting on top of the city walls with wonderful view. It was our first reunion dinner and we were happy to know some things remain the same.

We walked around the city and just talked. Catching up for the time we have lost by being countries and continents apart. Morgan was (and still is, at the time of writing) single and decided to play a naughty phone booth game with our gay Brazillian friend Cassio.

 

We retired to our guesthouse Point de Vue, it located just outside the Mdina city walls. The guesthouse building is Mediterranean style. Still charming despite facing directly to a parking lot and petrol station. Our room has a view to the other side, so we had the better view (of local countryside). The host is wonderful guy, we got a taste of Maltese hospitality.

Marsaxlokk

 

We had some free time before the wedding. Therefore, we visited Marsaxlokk—a local fishing village. We wanted to go to Saint Peter’s Pool. Unfortunately, we did not have enough time. Therefore, we settled for walking around the village.

There was a fishing boat where the captain and the crews were minding their nets onboard. The captain has two dogs. He let me play throw and fetch with his dogs. I always get a dose of extra positivity when playing with dogs, cats, elephants and toddlers.

 

I chatted with the captain and the crews. They became more interested when we said we’re Indonesians. The crews are Arabs, they are Muslims. Given the reputation of Indonesia as the largest Muslim country, they asked this question that seems must be asked by Muslims to anyone with ‘Muslim look’[6]: ‘Are you Muslims?’ (they asked in Arabic, the captain acted as an interpreter)

 

Religiously speaking I am not. And I agree with Sam Harris that we can’t build a genuine connection with fellow human beings by lying.[7] Nevertheless, I do have Muslim background—being born and grew up in a Muslim family in predominantly Muslim country— and I did subscribe to the belief in my past life (I can still recite Al-Fatihah verbatim). Therefore, culturally speaking I am a Muslim.[8] I would love to explain this, but my time was limited and there is risk such explanation would offend them. Plus it was Eid. So we said yes and greeted them with salaam as well as ‘Eid Mubarak.’

 

The crew replied our greetings, happily. However, they had a follow up question: why does my partner does not wear hijab? (she was wearing halter top and short summer pants). When we just smiled, the captain, thinking maybe his crews question has gotten too personal, dismissed the question.[9] We said our goodbyes and thanked them for the lovely chat. The captain, I believe in good faith, yelled ‘Allahu Akbar!’

 

Unfortunately, it had the unintended effect. I felt extremely uneasy. Despite the actual meaning of the words are ‘God is great,’ the words have become a rallying cry for the Islamists. The cry is associated with the last scream of suicide bombers before claiming their 72 virgins. And we were in a tourist destination. I saw heads turned to our directions.

We walked around again. Until we saw another fishing boat, but this time the crews have South East Asian look. I thought they are Filipino or Thai. But when I spoke Indonesian with my partner, the sailors said ‘Orang Indonesia juga?’

 

I am surprised to meet Indonesian migrants in Malta. I have worked with Justice Without Borders (JWB), an NGO advocating migrant workers’ rights, as a pro bono client. I have read research papers and reports on Indonesian migrants and Malta is definitely not a common destination for Indonesian migrant workers.

 

The sailors offered us cold water, much appreciated since we have walked under the Maltese summer sun. They told us their stories. They are from Tegal (but they did not speak in Ngapak accent). Naturally, what drove them to work as fishermen in Malta is the much better pay compared to working in Indonesia. They send their hard earned Euros back to Indonesia by cash. If any of their friends is returning home, they’d trusted the cash to the friend. This method saves the money from unfavourable currency exchange rate and international transfer charges.

 

I gave them my contact and JWB. In case they need legal assistance.

 

We had lunch at Tartarun, an excellent seafood restaurant. We had the catch of the day. Now, as this is a fancy restaurant, they throw away the fish head. We wish they had asked us first, my partner really likes fish heads (yes, it is common in Asia to eat the entire parts of the meal). I wished we could drink a bottle white wine with the meal, but I drove to and from Marsaxlokk. With Maltese traffic, I need to be as alert as if I am driving in Jakarta.

 

Valetta

 

Valetta is a World Heritage Site. The city itself is a sight.

 

We did not go inside the grand sights (we did visit the Barrakka Gardens, but it was partially closed for private event—a wedding). I wanted to visit the Saint John’s Co-Cathedral but it was Sunday. Therefore, the only way to visit it is by attending the Mass. It’s already almost noon when we arrived in Valetta. Plus, I learned from watching Vienna Boys’ Choir at Hofburgkapelle that Masses are boring.

Therefore, we just walked a lot and I think I managed to take many beautiful pictures. There is something in the Mediterranean architecture, sun and sea breeze that makes people happy. It seems the warmth of the sun is reflected on the land and people.

 

We had lunch at Kantina Café at Saint John’s Square. Cassio was the one who chose the place. He said they serve the best sandwich he ever had in his life (he visited Malta in 2015 during the LLM). I am not much of a sandwich person, but the sandwich I had was great.

 

Morgan treated us with afternoon drinks at one of the restaurants in the Valetta Waterfront. I had a Negroni. The Waterfront is a well-manicured tourist area. This is where the cruise ships dock themselves. A little sterile for my taste (and there was this one gigantic cruise ship blocking the sea view), but I loved every moment spent there with my friends.

 

There is a beach where the local kids were swimming. The beach has shabby houses built around it. I think it’s opposite the Grand Harbour and near the fish market. I loved the beach. I think it’s bohemian charming.

We had our farewell dinner at Rampila. We got a nice table inside, a cave-like wine cellar. I tried rabbit meat for the first time (because it is a signature Maltese cuisine). I just realised despite rabbits look cute and cuddly, their meat is not soft and juicy like beef or pork. All those hopping around made rabbits meat muscled up and dry.

 

We took our friends to the taxi stand and waved them goodbye as they returned to their hotel in Bugibba. My heart was full but sad knowing I don’t know when I can see them face to face again. Good thing we live in the internet and social media age. It is just one tap away to reach them and it is so easy to plan for another reunion somewhere around the globe.

 

We retired to our room in Casa Asti. Another charming Mediterranean style guest house run by a lovely old couple.[10] It is located just 5-minutes walk from the bus terminus. It is a perfect base to explore Valetta and even the entire Malta.

Leaving Malta

 

On the last day in Malta, I contemplated on the fact that I did not have the chance to visit and swim in one of Malta’s best beaches and lagoons such as the Blue Lagoon, Saint Peter’s Pool or the Blue Hole. The Azure Window has fallen off at the time of our visit. So I will never have the chance to see it again. Ever.

 

Yet, as Sir Elton John sung: ‘there is more to see, than can ever be seen.’ I shifted my focus on how privileged I am to be enlightened from ignorance, to see and to know people and places.

 

We took a taxi to Luqa International Airport. It was almost an hour drive, so we had a chance to get a taxi driver wisdom. The taxi driver has that Italian mafia look. He talked about prostitution in Malta. He is single and openly admits that he regularly employ the services of sex workers.

 

Prostitution is legal in Malta, but loitering is not. Competition for local sex workers have been hard because Chinese sex workers are entering the local market. Running a brothel is illegal in Malta. However, Chinese sex workers work in massage parlours. They are cheaper and the marketed aggressively. Many massage parlours contact hotel guests offering their services.

 

The taxi driver said that Malta, as in any conservative society, is hypocritical on the issues. When a man employs the services of a female prostitute, the blame is put more on the supply side for ‘wrecking families.’ The local sex workers find it more difficult to market their services with laws against loitering and the stigma.

 

He then asked whether it is easy to buy sex in Indonesia since it is a Muslim country. Oh yes, it is very easy to buy sex despite prostitution is illegal. There is an unofficial red light district in West Jakarta. Where lines of clubs, massage parlours and karaoke offer sex services. It is a fact that we call a ‘public secret.’ Naturally, complex issues of human trafficking and underage sex workers intertwined in this illegal industry.

 

The taxi driver wisdom we acquired in Malta seems to be a prelude to our education on prostitution in Amsterdam, our next stop in the 2017 Eurotrip.

 

Practicalities

Getting around Malta

Malta is a small country. Even the capital Valetta can be explored on foot (in fact, it’s the best way to do so). However, intercity transports are limited to bus, taxi or self-drive car hire.

 

Taxi

The taxi booked via taxi stands near bus terminals are fixed fare. However, you will have to negotiate the fare for taxi booked by phone or hotel.

 

Bus

I read that if you are based in a main city, such as Valetta, bus is easily accessible. However, they are slow compared to other transport. I did not take the bus so I can’t say much about this mode of transportation

 

Self-drive car hire

Self-drive car hire offers the most flexibility. Our Maltese friends told us that we need to be brave enough to drive in Malta. Maltese drivers have reputation of being notoriously careless. The good news (for us) is that people drive on the left side of the road, like in the UK and Indonesia.

 

I am trained to drive in Jakarta, so we took the risk of dealing with Maltese carelessness.

 

We rented a KIA Picanto from Blue Bird Malta. A local car hire company in Bugibba, referred by Nerissa. There are big car hire companies operating in Malta such as Avis and Hertz, but their rates fluctuate depending on off-peak or high season. It was summer when we visited Malta, so Blue Bird’s flat rate was much more economical.

 

Blue Bird’s office may seem a little dodgy. A small office space full of men with hard knock looks, just smoking and chillin’. The one who prepared the papers and the car for us even ask whether I want to sell my Indonesian international driver licence. But all in all, we had a seamless no-bull transaction.

 

I was not involved in any auto accident. Come to think of it, Jakarta’s traffic may be chaotic but traffic jams reduce the risk of fatal accidents (at least if you are driving a car. For two wheelers, the risk is high!). Malta’s intercity road almost have no traffic. I rarely had to deal with careless drivers, but when I did, it was in high speed situation.

 

When we went to Mdina from Valetta, Fabian the German helped me navigate the road with Google map. However, there were some glitches in our cooperation. Apparently, Fabian was a little confused because he is used to drive with Continental European[11] style, on the right side of the road. This seemingly banal fact made me smile and laugh. Again, travel amused me by reminding that there are many ways to do things, not just one way.

 

Etiquette

Malta is a conservative society. It is a strongly Catholic country. Therefore, despite it is a beach holiday destination in Europe, bikinis are only acceptable near the beach or swimming pool. Women are even expected to cover their shoulders in churches.

 

 

[1] My partner once had a Maltese shipping company as a client. They needed to legalise a document in Indonesian Embassy, but there is none in Malta. Therefore, they had to send the document to the Indonesian Embassy in Athens. However, there is an Indonesian consulate in Valetta now.

[2] Lonely Planet Malta & Gozo, 6^th Edition (February 2016).

[3] The bride and groom just stand before a decorated stage receiving handshakes and kisses from rows and rows of people (who are mostly unfamiliar with them) like a feudal king and queen. Large weddings by Indonesian standard have at least 1,000 guests. Unless you are a politician, can you imagine how onerous it is to greet that many people?

[4] A bartender in the open bar by the pool skipped serving me several times. The queue was London pub style, with no rigid form of lines but all customers understand the civilised way of letting the customer before them order first. I love this British politeness. However, one particular bartender seemed to keep forgetting my drinks. First time, I thought he was overwhelmed (it was crowded and busy after all). So I just reminded him. But he kept forgetting. And whenever I ordered gin and tonic, he always forget to put a lemon in it but not for other guests. I had to ask for the lemon. I thought it is funny he kept forgetting me. I remember Trevor Noah’s joke about Idris Elba as the next James Bond: a black spy will stand out in crowds in Europe. I clearly stood out from the crowd as the only Asian guy in the party. See Trevor Noah: Afraid of the Dark (Netflix, 2017).

[5] My Australian and British friends, please note my emphasis on the word ‘inconsiderate’. Most of you are awesome!

[6] The idea of Muslim as a race is a misnomer. As Ali A. Rizvi explained as a matter of fact, no one can convert out being black (or brown), but one can change or lose their religious belief.  See AA Rizvi, the Atheist Muslim: a journey from religion to reason (St. Martin’s Press, 2016).

[7] S Harris, Lying (Four Elephant Press, 2013).

[8] I think the best term for people like me is an Atheist Muslim as coined by Ali A. Rizvi. See AA Rizvi fn (5).

[9] My partner never wore hijab, even when she was still religious. In fact, many Muslim women—the moderates and the liberals— don’t.

[10] Maybe that explain why email response was slow and a little unclear when we made reservation. However, a phone call settled everything.

[11] It always amuses me when I heard a British referred to their continental neighbor ‘Europeans’. I do not think a separating body of water referred as a channel or the size of British Isles warrant Britain a continent, like Australia. I still view the British as Europeans. That’s why I prefer the terms ‘Continental Europeans’ for non-British Europeans. But I get it. Identity and culture are abstract and self-defined, sometimes arbitrarily.